AC and Heating Repair in Stone Mountain, GA for Systems With Some Miles on Them

Usually the condensate drain is clogged, the pan has cracked or rusted, or the evaporator coil froze and is now melting faster than the drain can carry it away. Switch the system off at the thermostat to stop more water, then look for a float switch that may have tripped. A tech clears the line, checks the pan and finds out whether a frozen coil points to a bigger airflow or refrigerant problem.

Look at three things: the thermostat mode and setpoint, the breakers for the indoor and outdoor units, and the air filter. If the copper line is iced, water is leaking or anything smells hot, shut the system off and leave it off. Keep older relatives, babies and pets in the coolest part of the house, then phone the emergency line.

The part that failed, how hard it is to reach, the type and size of the equipment and, for replacements, the ductwork, electrical changes and any permit involved. That is why we diagnose before quoting. Once the tech knows the cause, you get the exact cost, and the work starts only after you agree to it.

Often they do. A heat pump handles the long cooling season and covers most winter days efficiently, and on the handful of truly frigid nights, electric strips or a paired gas furnace pick up the slack. Whether it fits your house depends on the ductwork, the existing heating and how you like to run the system, which we can talk through.

During cooling season there is no practical difference; both haul indoor heat outdoors. A heat pump adds a reversing valve so it can run that process backward in winter and bring heat indoors. A plain AC has no winter role and leans on a furnace or electric strips once it turns cold.

Twice a year is the usual rhythm: cooling before summer and heating before winter. Heat pumps work in both seasons, so both visits matter. Older systems benefit the most, because the small problems that cause breakdowns tend to show up on the readings first.

Yes, low refrigerant means a leak, because the system is sealed and does not use refrigerant up. Many leaks at fittings, valves or a section of line set can be repaired. If the leak is in an aging coil, we compare the repair cost with replacing the coil or the system and let you choose.

Common causes are leaky or undersized ducts, closed or blocked registers, a weak return, a dirty coil or filter, or a system that cannot reach the far end of the house. Two-story homes add rising heat to the mix. Measuring airflow at the registers usually shows where the comfort is getting lost.

Humming or buzzing usually traces to a worn capacitor or a sticky contactor. A rattle may be a panel screw backing out or sticks caught in the fan blade, grinding or squealing usually means a fan motor bearing, and a loud bang at startup can signal a struggling compressor. Turn the unit off if the noise is harsh or new, and have a tech find the source before it does more damage.

Coil and drain cleaning, tightening and testing electrical parts, measuring refrigerant pressure, temperature split and airflow, and on the heating side, checking burners, igniter, flame sensor and every safety control. The visit ends with a clean filter and a page listing each reading plus any part showing wear.